Singapore - British fashion designer Peter Pilotto brought his eponymous label's Autumn Winter 2013-14 collection to Singapore as part of the annual fashion extravaganza that is Audi Fashion Festival on May 18, 2013.
As one of the main attractions for Singapore fashion-lovers, his show was completely sold out, had a front row full of some of the city's most fashion-forward people, local and international media and the stand-room-only was packed with young fashion designers, all salivating over seeing their hero's pieces in real life.
The designer, Pilotto, in one half of the team behind the successful brand. Pilotto is mostly in charge of the creation of the label's signature prints, his partner Christopher de Vos handles more of the pattern-making and structural components of their iconic designs known not only for being one of the first to use bright, digital prints, but also for their sharp, almost futuristic, feminine designs.
Earlier in the day, despite his busy schedule, Pilotto found time to sit down with some of Singapore's best emerging fashion designers to discuss the ins and outs of becoming an international fashion brand, as well as dishing out advice on how to ensure a good idea becomes a sustainable brand.
herworldPLUS was lucky enough to sit in; here's what he had to say:
HOW DO YOU TAKE A BRAND FROM A SMALL BUSINESS, LIKE MOST SINGAPORE-BASED FASHION LABELS, TO A MORE SUBSTANTIAL AND SUSTAINABLE BRAND?
You need to have the right framework - get the right people around you to help. Practical things like having the right showroom, PR firm and sales agent really makes a difference. A sales agent is good to have when you need to give buyers confidence - especially with new labels.
IT IS DIFFICULT TO BALANCE THE MORE CREATIVE ASPECTS OF THE JOB WITH BEING SUCCESSFUL COMMERCIALLY; HOW DO YOU DO IT?
We (Pilotto and de Vos) both do both. It was when we noted that two particular dresses in one of our earliest collections were the items that everyone bought, so we thought 'Ahh ... that's where our strength is".
Young designers should focus on your strengths ... Don't do everything; perfect your strengths and then slowly expand your range. When I first graduated I did printed tees, but wanted to do more; a full collection ...But that's all I could do at that time due to lack of resources and knowledge.
When I moved to London in 2004 and started working with Christopher I realised that our skills complemented each other; that was also when Sarah Mower of Fashion East 'discovered' us and really helped us develop our ideas into a label. We had our first real show only in 2009. It took us about five years to become even moderately successful.
Young designers really need to be prepared that it will take a while; you need to learn so many things. Try to work for a (fashion) house or get an internship to learn more about the business.
DO YOU NOW HAVE A MANAGEMENT TEAM TO LOOK AFTER THE BUSINESS?
No, we both still handle all sides of the business - I think is important to know all aspects of the business. The more you learn the better ... There are so many things to learn ... No school can really teach you everything you need to know so you have to continue to teach yourself.
WHAT'S ONE THING THAT YOU THINK MADE THE DIFFERENCE IN YOUR LABEL BECOMING SO SUCCESSFUL?
For us fitting (and sizing) is very important - we are almost hysterical about getting the sizes right, so much so that we have become known for it. We have fit models for every size and do all the grading in-house. The majority of our sales are online still so it's very important; people don't want to be sending things back all the time.
WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES A DESIGNER SUCCESSFUL?
You have to be focused; focused on what you do best and to have a point of difference ... And you must be aware that it is hard, and it's getting harder, to become a truely successful fashion brand.
As one of the marque shows of the Audi Fashion Festival 2013 lineup, Peter Pilotto was bound to draw a crowd of some of Singapore's most fashion-forward citizens. Although the brand didn't show the entire collection, there was more than enough on the runway to excited lovers of the brand and intrigue those who were experiencing it for the first time.
Opening with cherry red pieces with vaguely Asian overtones - the second one worn by up-and-coming Singapore model Sarah Chan - the showed moved through the signature dresses and separates composed of graphic lines, eye-wateringly bright colours and those famous digital prints, into the die-die must buy fitted and cropped puffa jacket (sure to be front row at Spring Summer 2014 fashion weeks in September) and finally into some of the labels newer looks that incorporate glittering embellishment, the addition of fur trims on dresses and longer coats, before finishing with a very oriental-looking dress with an overskirt and extended cap sleeves.
The designer took a bow to thunderous applause as most of the crowd rose to its feet; the long journey to Singapore had obviously been a success.
Photos: Plush, Royston Neo
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